Atelier Restaurant. 540 Rochester Street, Ottawa.

At Atelier, there’s no name on the two story, grey brick facade. Is this paying homage to another avant-garde cuisine restaurant located in Chicago, Alinea?

On entry, the three and a half year old, compact dining room has strategically placed tables, sans white linen and 22 white, sofia like chairs. On the mantle I notice the chef’s recent addition to his accolades, the Canadian Culinary Championships trophy. Ottawa’s food scene, via chef Marc Lepine, is getting the recognition it deserves.

Dinner begins with baguette slices accompanied by a white, unbranded toothpaste tube filled with homemade butter. No bread basket with portioned butter here.

First glance at the only menu, a 12 course feast, makes me laugh. Creative names for the dishes include The Citrus Beet, The Codfather, Liver Let Die, Yolko Uno, Marrekesh Express, The Boar Identity, Elka Seltzer and Mental Menthol.

One of our dishes on the evening is #ccc2012, which duplicates his winning dish from the mentioned competition. Quadra Island scallop with bacon, dehydrated fennel, porcini mushroom powder, fennel pollen, celery compressed with Sambuca, pickled chanterelle mushrooms, aerated potato puree flavored with black truffle and tonka bean, lemon-thyme-shallot sauce and chorizo meatballs. Then a crispy sheet of celeriac, bacon fat powder, lemon balm, and micro lovage. Finally the dish is sprayed with an atomizer containing Sambuca infused with lemon rind and lemon verbena. The friendly, yet professional server recalls every element on this, and all the dishes served. Now that’s impressive!

Many of the protein dishes are subjected to the low temperature water bath cooking technique known as “sous vide”, to ensure perfect doneness every time.

Every plate plays with your sense of taste and texture through the aid of technology and ingredients not found in your home pantry. Items like agar, maltodextrin, alginate, calcium lactate and lecithin are used to create flavored gels, powders, beads, and foams.
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A post dinner tour of the kitchen reveals a small, v-shaped kitchen barely large enough for the chef and his two cooks. The one by three metre rectangle, stainless steel table for plating is the hero in this kitchen.

Recommended for the diner wanting a theatre for the senses.

Complimentary flavor combinations and textures worthy of a long drive to Ottawa (if you live in Toronto).

Tasting menu, $95 per person and $155 with wine pairings.

For reservations contact Atelier at 1.613.321.3537 or email info@atelierrestaurant.ca